书藏古今，港通天地。宁波是一座向海而生，因港而兴的城市。为了向寰宇讲好宁波故事，宁波发布推出“双语宁波”栏目，围绕历史、地舆、东说念主文、经济等多个方面聚焦“寰宇的宁波，宁波的寰宇”。

看成海上丝绸之路的开头城市之一，宁波自古就和寰宇各地交游密切。今天，咱们随着宁波晚报“番邦档案里的宁波”栏目，带全球换个视角，望望番邦档案里的宁波是什么神态。

100多年前的番邦东说念主，如何打卡雪窦山？

How did international visitors depict Xuedou Mountain over 100 years ago?

约翰·汤姆逊拍摄的千丈岩，出自《中国与中国东说念主影像》。

The Qianzhang Cliff, photographed by John Thomson, from Illustrations of China and Its People.

雪窦山，自古即是宁波左近的遗迹。位于千丈岩瀑布口的雪窦寺，始建于晋代，初名瀑布院，风光奇绝。唐会昌元年（841）移建今址，后多有毁建。

Xuedou Mountain has long been a renowned scenic spot in the vicinity of Ningbo. Xuedou Temple — originally built during the Jin Dynasty (266-420) and named “Waterfall Temple” — sits at the mouth of the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall and enjoys stunning views. The temple was relocated to its current site in 841 AD of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and has since undergone numerous reconstructions.

这里曾被写进图画。400多年前，明代画家宋旭画过一页“雪窦飞瀑”，收录在他的《名山图册》里。

Its scenic beauty has been immortalized in paintings. Over 400 years ago, Song Xu (1525-1606) — a painter from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) — depicted the majestic waterfall at Xuedou Mountain and featured it in his album of famous mountain paintings.

宋旭笔下的“雪窦飞瀑”。

The painting of "Xuedou Waterfall" by Song Xu.

英国东说念主俄里范的文章中，较早出现了西方东说念主对于雪窦山的素描。好意思国宣道士夫东说念主海伦·倪维念念，德国地舆学家李希霍芬，英国照相师约翰·汤姆逊，好意思国照相师杜德维，英国女性旅众人库明女士、树德夫东说念主也齐到过雪窦山，或用镜头或用文字记录下他们的旅行。

Earlier sketches of Xuedou Mountain by Westerners appeared in the works of British author Laurence Oliphant(1829-1888). Figures such as Helen S. C. Nevius (1833–1910, wife of an American missionary), German geographer Ferdinand von Richthofen (1833–1905), British photographer John Thomson (1837–1921), American photographer Edward Bangs Drew (1842–1924), and British travelers including Miss Constance Gordon-Cumming (1837–1924), Mrs. Archibald Little (1845–1924) visited the site. They recorded their journeys through written accounts or photographic lenses, preserving impressions of Xuedou Mountain in diverse forms.

“宁波周围，风光最娟秀的莫过于雪谷（即雪窦山）一带。”倪维念念夫东说念主的奖饰，亦然许多东说念主共同的感受。

Helen Nevius’ words of admiration echo the feelings of many: “There is no scenery in the neighborhood of Ningpo more inviting than Snowy Valley [Xuedou Mountain] and its vicinity.”

如今的雪窦山。宁波发布特约照相师 傅旭涛/摄

Xuedou Mountain today.

雪窦山的瀑布

“Snow Valley”: Waterfalls

属于某种偶合，在西方纪行中保举雪窦山的多位齐是女性。海伦·倪维念念是宁波开埠后较早赶赴、留住文字记录的一位。

Interestingly, many of the Western travelers who recommended Xuedou Mountain were women. Among them, Helen was one of the earliest people to visit and document her experience after Ningbo opened as a treaty port.

1853年，海伦·倪维念念和她的丈夫好意思国宣道士约翰·倪维念念自波士顿启航来华，1854年经上海到宁波。1864年，海伦因病提前复返好意思国，她于1869年出书的《在华岁月》一布告录的就是这十年间，她在中国的所见所闻。

In 1853, Helen and her husband, American missionary John Livingston Nevius, sailed from Boston to China and then arrived in Ningbo via Shanghai in 1854. However, she returned to the United States in 1864 due to illness, followed by the publication of her book Our Life in Chinawhich chronicled her ten years of life and observations in China five years later.

1869年版《在华岁月》中，对于宁波振奋的插图。

Illustrations of Ningbo's scenery in the 1869 edition of Our Life in China.

“此地最值得称说念的特点是瀑布和溪流，若在西方，必定会引诱浩荡游客前来不雅光。山涧一齐冲向山下的平原，组成一系列落差很高的瀑布，好意思不堪收。每个瀑布隔壁，齐建有释教寺庙。小一些的古刹，东一座西一所，洒落在水边和岩壑石壁间。在这一系列瀑布中，首屈一指的是‘千丈岩瀑布’，高约百米，双方岩石则更高……再走15里路，又有一处瀑布，高约150米，从某些角度来看，更漂亮，东说念主们称之‘徐凫岩瀑布’。此瀑布水量不大，尚未落到底下岩石，便已酿成轻微的细丝。”海伦意象，“位于纽约州卡尤加湖西岸的泰格卡尼克瀑布与之相当相似，但不足它一半高，水流量也小得多。”

Helen wrote: “The most remarkable feature of this locality is the waterfalls and ravines which, in Western lands, would attract crowds of admiring visitors. Mountain streams, forcing their way to the plain below, form a succession of waterfalls of great height and singular beauty. Near each of these cataracts is a Buddhist monastery; and innumerable smaller shrines are scattered here and there, by the wayside, or in niches in the rocks. Tsin-dziang-ngaen, the first of these falls, is about three hundred feet high, and the rocks on either side are much higher ... About five miles distant is still another fall, five hundred feet high, and in some respects more beautiful. It is called Z-wu. The volume of water is not great, and, before it reaches the rocks below, it is converted into light, feathery foam.” The scene reminded Helen that “Taghanuc Falls, on the west bank of Cayuga Lake, in New York, is strikingly like it, but Taghanuc is not half as high, nor has it as much water.”

1869年版《在华岁月》中使用的千丈岩瀑布插画。

A sketch of the Waterfall at Xuedou Mountain in Our Life in China.

雪窦山与溪口的早期素描

Early Sketches of Xuedou Mountain and Xikou Town

英国东说念主俄里范1860年出书的文章中，有三张雪窦山、溪口的素描画，其中一张千丈岩与倪维念念夫东说念主的《在华岁月》存在“分享图库”的情况。这张画右下方婉曲有画家手写签名，但不是很好鉴识。

The 1860 publication of Laurence Oliphant features three sketches of Xuedou Mountain and Xikou Town, one of which shares similarities with the illustrations in Our Life in Chinaby Helen. This sketch of “Tseen-Chang-Yen Waterfall” (Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall) has what appears to be the artist’s handwritten signature in the lower right corner, though it is somewhat difficult to make out.

俄里范1860年版文章中的千丈岩素描。

The sketch of “Tseen-Chang-Yen Waterfall” in Laurence Oliphant’s book.

俄里范对雪窦山亦然慕名而至，约在1857年至1859年间到达。“当咱们到达海拔约1000英尺的所在时，从隆起的山峰上回望，情切的全景映入眼帘。山谷里散步着稀疏的屯子，被一条像银线相通迂回的河流分开。而在咱们右边，悬垂的竹林笼罩着笔陡的山坡，羽毛状的竹子花式各别，阵势优好意思，在微风中轻轻摇曳。”

Drawn by its reputation, Laurence arrived at Xuedou Mountain sometime between 1857 and 1859. “When we had attained an elevation of about 1000 feet, and looked back from a projecting spur in the range, a beautiful panoramic view met the eye. The valley we had traversed in the morning, dotted with scattered villages, and divided by the river winding away to the horizon like a silver thread, lay at our feet, while on our right pendulous woods of bamboo covered the steep slopes of the mountain: planted with perfect regularity, their feathery plumes, of varied hues and exquisite grace of form, waved gently in the breeze.”

第二日，俄里范游览了左近一带，俯视宽阔深重的山谷以及犬牙交错河流与野外，也看到了山坡上的稻田和其他作物，有一些东说念主影在田庐干活，或者沿着迂回的小路行走。

On the second day, Laurence toured the surrounding area, gazing over the vast, fertile valley where rivers weaved through fields. He noticed terraced rice paddies and other crops on the slopes, as well as people working in the fields or strolling along winding paths.

俄里范文章中的素描插图。

The sketch in Laurence Oliphant’s book.

在千丈岩顶峰，他持着一棵松树，伸长脖子，看向底下的水潭，湍急的水流与高度让他头昏脑胀；他来到瀑布眼下，被淋得周身湿透。

At the peak of the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall, he gripped a pine tree and craned over to glimpse the pool beneath. The roaring waters and dizzying height made his head spin. As he descended to the foot of the fall, he was soaked by the misty spray.

俄里范感叹说念，“在职何国度，这么的所在齐值得一游。”“任何旅行者在打听宁波时齐应该先去山上一游。”

Oliphantwrote: “In any country they would be worthy of a visit.” He further suggested, "Any traveler visiting Ningbo should first take a trip to the mountain."

照相师镜头下的雪窦山

Xuedou Mountain Through the Lens

19世纪70年代，雪窦山走来了两位照相师，约翰·汤姆逊与在宁波税务司责任的杜德维。他们为雪窦山拍下的相片，弥足珍稀且传播广泛。

In the 1870s, two photographers, John Thomson and Edward Bangs Drew (an employee of the Ningbo Tax Service), visited Xuedou Mountain. Their photos of the mountain are highly valuable and widely circulated.

约翰·汤姆逊于1872年4月3日来到宁波，在他的四卷本巨著《中国与中国东说念主影像》中，雪窦山亦然一个独处的篇章，图文并茂细节丰富。

John arrived in Ningbo on April 3, 1872. In his four-volume work, Illustrations of China and Its People, Xuedou Mountain is richly illustrated and detailed to form a separate chapter.

约翰·汤姆逊1874年版文章中对于雪窦山的章节。

The chapter on Xuedou Mountain in John Thomson's 1874 edition work.

和前东说念主相通，约翰·汤姆逊不惜文字地描画着晨光中的野外、芦苇间静静流动的河水、秀好意思的竹子、强盛的古树。

John, like his predecessors, spared no words in describing the fields bathed in the morning light, the quietly flowing river among the reeds, the graceful bamboo, and the sturdy ancient trees.

他眼里有景也有东说念主。“这里的杜鹃花很有名，其时正值绽放的季节，漫天盖地飞霞披彩，一簇簇花朵在深绿色枝杈的烘托下情切很是，沿着小路的双方一齐绽放。”隔壁的妇女和孩童会在“他们的头上插上杜鹃花看成艰涩”。

“The azaleas, for which the place is celebrated, were in full bloom, mantling the hills and valleys with rosy hues, and throwing out their blossoms in clusters of surpassing brilliancy against the deep green foliage which binds the edges of the path.” He observed not just the landscape but also the people: “The women and children of this district would adorn their raven tresses with the bright flowers of the azalea.”

看成一个照相师，汤姆逊神态说：“莫得任何相片能再现这个所在瑶池一般的情切，色调斑斓的岩石上长满了蕨类植物和开开花的灌木，水流从布满苔藓的峭壁上飞奔而下，就像新娘轻微的头纱。翻过遍及的山石，穿过几丛竹子，我来到瀑布下的水潭边，飞溅的水雾映射出一说念说念彩虹，碧绿的叶子上挂着千千万万颗闪亮的宝珠，叶子低落着，就粗糙在联贯瀑布流泻而下的分量。”

On one of the following days, the photographer was conducted by an aged monk to view the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall. “No picture can convey an idea of the romantic beauty of the place. The variously-coloured rocks were covered with ferns and flowering shrubs, and the water, broken over the mossy ledges, fell like the delicate folds of a bridal veil. Climbing over huge boulders and beneath bamboo clumps, I reached the stone basin below, where the spray was lit with a hundred rainbow hues, scattering a thousand gems on the ferns, which seemed to bend their leaves and catch the burden of the fall.”

约翰·汤姆逊拍摄的三隐潭瀑布上方。（据所在文化连络者仇柏年考据效果）

The upper part of “Sung-ing-day” Waterfall photographed by John Thomson. (According to the research results of local culture researcherQiu Bainian)

他还去了三隐潭瀑布。“到达那儿要进程一座诗情画意的单拱桥，桥上爬满了藤蔓。水流荡入一个又深又窄的沟壑，暗绿的松树阴千里千里地立正在陡壁边，底下那幽暗的幽谷里，溪水在乱石嶙峋的河床上找到了一条新的去路。远方的山坡上一派逍遥的田园振奋，而目前又是如斯的陡立峥嵘，这么摄东说念主心魄的好意思景，真的世间罕有。”

He also visited the fall commonly known as “Sung-ing-day”, which is “approached by a picturesque bridge of a single arch concealed beneath the creepers that overgrow it.” He wrote: “The water here descends into a deep, narrow chasm, and groups of tall, dark pines look sombrely over the verge of this precipice into the dark abyss below, where the river seeks a new channel through a rough and broken bed. The peaceful cultivated hills above and the rugged foreground present a combination as rare as it is striking.”

雪窦山上的花

Flowers on Xuedou Mountain

1879年4月底，雪窦山走来一位英国维多利亚时期的有名女性旅行作者、画家库明。她在宁波旅行了一个月，时而在贩子散步，时而去郊外寻幽。

In late April 1879, the renowned British Victorian travel writer and painter Constance Frederica Gordon-Cumming (1837-1924) arrived at Xuedou Mountain. During her month-long sojourn in Ningbo, she immersed herself in the city’s vibrant culture, meandering through its bustling streets and venturing into the tranquil countryside.

库明。

Cumming.

她赶赴雪窦山的本事是1879年5月7日，和另两位女性一又友结伙。之前她们就传闻山谷里的杜鹃花相当有名，亲眼看到的风光更是超出了她们的期待。

On May 7, 1879, Lady Cumming ascended Xuedou Mountain with two female companions. Drawn by the valley’s famed rhododendrons, they were thrilled to discover that the vibrant display exceeded their expectations.

“当咱们启动攀峻岭谷时，很快发现我方还是到了杜鹃花海。”她的一又友如斯写说念，“尽管橙色的杜鹃花丛好意思不堪收，但深红色还是褪去，地上的血红色与落花交汇在扫数，诉说着它们散失的荣耀。”

“When we commenced the ascent of the valley we soon found ourselves in the azalea belt,” Cumming and her friend Ave sorely regretted not having arrived a fortnight earlier, for “though the thickets of orange azalea are gorgeous beyond measure, the crimson is all faded, and the ground blood-red with the fallen blossoms, telling what must have been their vanished glory.”

她们在路上见到一瞥排芬芳的金银花，还有两种洁白的山楂花，“齐像在英国小路上相通绽放，这里的鸟儿唱得如斯振奋，杜鹃的叫声听起来如斯当然，真实让咱们健忘了离家有多远”。

On the journey, they encountered lush trails of fragrant honeysuckle and the snowy blossoms of hawthorn in two varieties, both “blooming in as rich perfection as if in an English lane.” Cumming marveled: “No wonder that happy birds here sing so joyously! and the cuckoo’s note sounded so natural as almost to make us forget how far from home we were.”

在雪窦山谷，库明和一又友们在溪流旁享受了野餐，在徐凫岩瀑布上的拱桥旁看到了更多成群的白玫瑰、山楂花、杜鹃花，还有一簇簇猩红色、深红色的花丛，让三位爱好意思的女东说念主心舒坦足。

Cumming and her friends enjoyed a picnic by the stream and admired clusters of white roses, hawthorn, golden azalea, and lingering patches of scarlet and crimson near the arch bridge by the Xufuyan waterfall. All the three ladies were captivated by the breathtaking views.

徐凫拱桥，出自《杜德维的相册》。

Xufu Arch Bridge, from Drew's Album.

散失的“宝典”

The Missing “Treasure Book”

库明女士的书出书不久，就被另一位英国女性作者、旅众人阿绮波德·树德看到。她在自后我方的纪行中写：“她（库明女士）笔下描画的宁波隔壁的杜鹃花，令我极端沉进。那时我就想，若是有一天能特意去中国看杜鹃花该多好。谁知，这一纯真的来了。”

”Soon afterwards, the publication of Ms. Cumming’s book was spotted by Mrs. Archibald Little (1845-1926), another English author and traveler. “... travelling through the English Lakes in the mouth of June and rejoicing in the rhododendrons and azaleas, so lovely there, I read Miss Gordon Cumming’s account of the azaleas on the hills behind Ningpo, and thought I must some day come to China just on purpose to see them. But I did not then think that I should ever really do so.”

年青时的树德夫东说念主。

Mrs. Little in her youth.

1894年的树德夫东说念主和她的丈夫，图自伦敦国度肖像画廊。

Mrs. Littleand her husband in 1894, from the National Portrait Gallery, London.

她到达宁波本事是4月，正值春天。次日，她就迫不足待去了雪窦山。“猛地看到松树丛下粉色的杜鹃花时，咱们的惊喜便油可是生。从远方看去，隔壁一两个山坡上完全铺满了红彤彤的杜鹃花。进程一个山坡时，咱们不由得跳下去，采摘多样花式的杜鹃花。它们就像在英国花圃里相通娇艳动东说念主，竞相怒放，有玫瑰红的，粉红的，还有紫色的……到了吃午餐的时候，咱们来到了一条水流很急的小河畔。小河两岸开满了紫罗兰相通的花朵，咱们就在这河畔吃起午餐来。”

Mrs. Little couldn’t wait to go to Xuedou Mountain the day just after she arrived in Ningbo from Shanghai. “But there came a moment of intense excitement, when we first caught sight of azaleas, pink beneath the fir trees. Then there was a hillside or two in the distance all ruddy with them. At last we were carried over such a hill and sprang out and gathered our hands full of pale pink, of rosy red, of mauve and again of purple reddish azaleas. They were quite as lovely as in English gardens... We lunched by a swift stream, on whose banks grew what looked like violet flowers, but violet flowers with leaves most unlike violets. And there we sat and watched the rafts go by.”

相比极端的是，住在雪窦寺的夜晚开云官网切尔西赞助商，树德夫东说念主还收到了僧东说念主们提供的一册“书”——“它完全不同于咱们以往所看到的旅游指南，游客们真实齐在尝试，想在上头给自后者留住些东说念主生感悟。游客玛高温医师浅显地先容了当地的历史。维尔特·梅特赫斯特爵士在书中详备先容了这里的游览门道与游览规则。虽然，这里的一切齐那么迷东说念主，那些书反倒没那么蹙迫了。书里还纪录了好多鸟的名字，可花的名字莫得记叙。游客福莱尔医师写下了他对这里的不雅察与感悟，他最热情的是古刹门口的两棵树，不知是什么特别品种。”